Spring/Summer 2026 marked a historic moment on the Paris Haute Couture calendar. At just 26, Phan Huy became the youngest guest couturier invited to show under his own name—and the first designer from Vietnam to achieve this distinction. For a house founded only in 2023 with London-based cofounder Steven Doan, the debut felt remarkably assured.
As a Vietnamese, it is impossible not to feel a deep sense of pride. Seeing a young designer from a developing country stand confidently on one of fashion’s most prestigious stages—and deliver a collection that holds its own alongside major couture houses—feels significant. This was not inclusion for novelty; it was recognition earned through craft.
Phan Huy Spring/Summer 2026 Collection
Heritage Through Craft, Not Costume
Titled “Cành Vàng Lá Ngọc” (Golden Branch, Jade Leaf), the collection drew from the Nguyen dynasty, particularly the era of cultural exchange when Vietnam’s royal court engaged with France. Rather than literal historical reinterpretation, Phan Huy translated imperial references into texture and structure.
Hue, the former imperial capital, informed much of the collection’s visual language. Ornamental arrangements made from gold, jade, and precious stones inspired branching embroidery and layered appliqué. Metallic surfaces and gemstone accents subtly referenced Emperor Khai Dinh’s ceremonial regalia, yet the execution remained contemporary.
The silhouettes leaned toward a Western couture framework—corseted bodices, sculpted hips, voluminous skirts supported by crinolines. On shorter dresses, the structure created playful movement; on longer gowns, the volume felt regal and composed.
Phan Huy Spring/Summer 2026 Collection
Technique as Identity
Backstage, Steven Doan described textiles engineered specifically for this season. Tulle interwoven with horsehair tubes created fan-like striping effects. Organza was scattered with three-dimensional leaves, each cut individually, edged in tubular beads, and stitched by hand. Sculptural loop embroideries were applied one by one, transforming surfaces into tactile landscapes.
A striking red gown worn by Coco Rocha took approximately three months to complete, shimmering with every step. Elsewhere, a strapless design composed of 3,200 laser-cut voile petals unfolded dramatically along the body, each petal individually embellished with golden beads and crystals.
The collection truly came alive when fabrics moved fluidly: richly embroidered netting heavy with stones; chiffon column dresses layered with cascading glittering strands; bralets encrusted with rhinestones that introduced a playful sensuality. These moments captured the brand’s backstage motto: couture, but fun.
Phan Huy Spring/Summer 2026 Collection
Balancing East and West
Vietnamese silk formed the foundation of many looks, while muted golds and soft pastels echoed royal ceremonial dress. Yet nothing felt folkloric. The dialogue between tradition and modernity—East and West—was handled with control rather than excess.
Horsehair thread and organza were deconstructed and layered to achieve structured lightness, creating garments that felt architectural yet breathable. This balance between discipline and delicacy is what set the collection apart.
A Milestone Beyond Fashion
Phan Huy’s Spring/Summer 2026 couture debut is more than a personal triumph; it represents a broader shift in the geography of haute couture. For decades, the discipline has been dominated by historic European houses. Seeing a young Vietnamese designer command this platform with technical excellence signals a widening of that narrative.
As someone who shares that heritage, the pride is personal. To witness a designer from Vietnam—young, independent, and emerging from a developing fashion ecosystem—present work of such refinement among global powerhouses is powerful. It proves that couture’s future is not confined by borders, but shaped by dedication, vision, and craft.
Phan Huy did not arrive in Paris as a curiosity. He arrived with a language of his own—and the confidence of a house ready to define its place.
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