For the Spring 2025 Collection, creative director Anthony Vaccarello paid homage to Yves Saint Laurent, the legendary founder of the house, by embracing the design codes he established, particularly those from the 1970s and ’80s. The dramatic runway featured a striking golden frieze set against the night sky, with a cobalt-blue runway that glistened from the rain, reminiscent of Yves’s iconic lapis lazuli-inspired gardens in Marrakech. Another nod to the founder was the emphasis on masculine, robust suiting.
Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Collection
ves Saint Laurent is renowned for pioneering the women’s suit in the 1960s, most notably with the le smoking silhouette, which forever linked the brand to this style. Vaccarello’s interpretation echoed the founder’s aesthetic, especially when paired with vintage Yves-like eyewear. The collection’s suiting was described as fluid, characterized by long double-breasted blazers and pleated trousers that moved effortlessly. The designs featured broad shoulders that ended in dramatic points, wide ties, and sleeves rolled up under trench coats and rounded leather bombers.
Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Collection
Among the many high-profile guests, Bella Hadid emerged as the standout star, making a return to the runway in an inky black power suit. After stepping back from the fashion scene to focus on her health, Hadid’s confident strut halfway through the show sent the Internet into a frenzy. Supermodel Anok Yai perfectly captured the moment, sharing a selfie with Hadid on Instagram and proclaiming, “My bitch back after leaving me for dead.”’
Bella Hadid at Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Show
To balance the office-ready looks, the show gracefully transitioned into more frilly, traditionally feminine pieces. There were brocade pajama sets reminiscent of YSL collector Nan Kempner and flowing chiffon maxi skirts paired with oversized bead necklaces, signaling the return of boho chic. The collection featured a series of dazzling brocade jackets worn over high-neck lace tops and tiered silk miniskirts, all in vibrant hot pink and orange hues. Shimmering lurex minidresses layered over lace added to the glamour. Vaccarello’s suits, shirts, and ties exhibited a newfound sense of order and restraint, lending an air of seriousness to the clothing.
Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2025 Collection
According to the collection notes, “No other House is as linked to a quintessential female archetype as Saint Laurent, whose ideal woman is more complex than the seductive perfection of classic muses.” Vaccarello’s vision of the Saint Laurent woman embraces darker inclinations and an attraction to danger, embodying modern agency and fierce independence.
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