In the world of haute couture, where ambition meets artistry, Schiaparelli’s Spring 2025 collection, aptly named Icarus, soared to breathtaking heights. Inspired by the Greek myth of the ambitious yet ill-fated son of Daedalus, Daniel Roseberry reimagined the story not as a cautionary tale of hubris, but as a testament to the boundless pursuit of beauty and innovation. Presented at the Petit Palais amidst shimmering pools of hammered gold, the collection reflected Roseberry’s bold interpretation of Schiaparelli’s signature surrealism, blending historical reverence with a daring modern edge.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture Collection
Redefining Schiaparelli’s Legacy
Since taking the helm at Schiaparelli in 2019, Roseberry has continuously evolved the maison’s aesthetic, balancing the heritage of Elsa Schiaparelli with his own visionary artistry. With Icarus, he took a significant departure from the black-and-gold surrealist motifs he had popularized in past seasons, embracing a more sculptural and theatrical approach. The collection’s foundation lay in the corset, an iconic piece that Schiaparelli herself reinterpreted in her later years. Here, Roseberry exposed corsetry with audacious precision, transforming it into an architectural spectacle—cinched waists, exaggerated hips, and busts molded to striking proportions.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture Collection
The show paid homage to couturiers past—Madame Grès, Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Azzedine Alaïa—while simultaneously asserting a distinctive modernity. Roseberry questioned the contemporary fixation on minimalism, challenging the notion that modernity must equate to simplicity. “Can’t the new also be baroque, be extravagant?” he pondered in his show notes. The result was a collection that defied restraint, embracing embellishment, structure, and high drama.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture Collection
From the moment the first model emerged, the theme of ascension was evident. Gilded feathers, sculpted bustiers, and aerodynamically shaped jackets evoked the sensation of flight. Pearl-stranded minidresses shimmered like relics from a lost civilization, while pleated gold column gowns created the illusion of perpetual motion. The craftsmanship was undeniable—each piece a testament to the expertise cultivated in Schiaparelli’s young but formidable couture ateliers.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture Collection
One of the most striking silhouettes featured exaggerated ‘S-shaped’ hips, molded in neoprene and jersey, reminiscent of 19th-century bustles but reinterpreted through Roseberry’s avant-garde lens. These pieces drew comparisons to the works of Mugler and Saint Laurent, yet maintained an unmistakable Schiaparelli essence. Elsewhere, corseted gowns sliced to reveal exposed boning referenced Roseberry’s own past collections, nodding to his Autumn/Winter 2022 couture designs.
As a house with a relatively small presence compared to couture giants like Chanel or Dior, Schiaparelli’s strength lies in its ability to make bold statements. Roseberry understands that to stand out, one must create with audacity. Like Christian Lacroix at Jean Patou in the 1980s, he treats couture as a laboratory of ideas, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in garment construction and design.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture Collection
The myth of Icarus often serves as a warning against overreaching ambition, but Roseberry has redefined its message. Instead of seeing failure, he sees the nobility of the attempt—the relentless pursuit of perfection that defines couture. “Haute couture aspires to reach great heights; it promises escape from our complicated reality. It also reminds us that perfection comes at a price,” he reflected. And while the risk of flying too close to the sun is always present, Icarus proved that with the right vision, the sky is limitless.
With Icarus, Daniel Roseberry has once again solidified his place as one of the most compelling voices in haute couture. The collection masterfully balanced historical influence with a forward-thinking approach, proving that the pursuit of beauty is always worth the risk. By embracing grandeur, meticulous craftsmanship, and an unyielding creative spirit, Roseberry ensured that Schiaparelli’s flight was anything but a fall—it was a spectacular ascent.
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