Taking place in a dilapidated nightclub beneath the Pont Alexandre III, Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection Spring 2024 depicts the Parisian nightlife in 1920s – 1930s through haunting porcelain dolls roaming at the banks of Seine river. The show is a masterpiece of theatrical drama and avant-garde pieces embellished by cutting-edge corsetry and sheer lace gowns.
Leon Dame in Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection
The runway show opened with models cascading between the foggy nighttime cityscape bathed in the light of full moon. They move in uniquely erringly mechanical manners, amplifying the doll-like effects. John Galliano truly brings the Toulouse Lautrec paintings to life by making the show as a cinematic prelude through the use of multi-disciplinary effects. The allure of bodycon corsets and cinchers, breastplates made of wood or porcelain imitation, dresses with tulle and silk organza draped over them, unfinished wool crêpe tailoring, abstract lace blouses, featherlight jackets, and coats made of milletrage truly demonstrates the skillful mastery of John Galliano. And the subtle touch of sun-bleached, tobacco-stained and moon-faded details eventually completes the whole look.
Finally, Gwendoline Christie closes the show with her empty eyes constantly blinking in bewilderment. The staggering instability in her movements signifies her lostness finding the way out of the abandoned club, stepping from the underworld to reality.
Gwendoline Christie in Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection
My personal favorite from the show is definitely the makeup done by Pat McGrath. To create the marionette and plastic-like appearance of their skins, she used a liquid glass by Kryolan that is like a latex painted on skins. This generates a finished glowy glass-skin look that can be easily peeled off.
Porcelain Doll Makeup by Pat McGrath
Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection Spring 2024 is the revival of avant-garde and the inspiration for other designers to use fashion as wearable arts. It is the confirmation for all of us that fashion is more than extraordinary craft, it is an astonishing multi-sensory experience that generates you-need-to-be-there-to-believe-it moments.