On June 24th, Schiaparelli kicked off Paris’ Haute Couture Week at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. Designer Daniel Roseberry’s surrealistic vision, which has solidified his status as a prominent figure in high fashion, introduced a detailed new concept of who the label’s muse could be.
Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2024
Roseberry drew inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli’s influential 1940s feathered silhouette, paying tribute to Anna Pavlova’s ‘The Dying Swan’ ballet. This imagery influenced the collection’s opening ensemble: a silver, metallic garment adorned with bird feathers arranged protectively across the body. The collection also featured deep-V tops embellished with extravagant quills, and blazers with lapels and sleeves evoking bird-like motifs.
Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2024
Enhancing the theme’s consistency, whether inspired by Capote’s swans or the resurgence from everyone’s collective Mad Men rewatch, mid century style has undeniably left its mark on the fashion scene. Roseberry embraces the allure of generous 1940s shoulders and bow-adorned 1950s gowns. He even paid homage to an archival piece from 1938 and vintage shoe designs, repurposing them as elements in headpieces and gown necklines.
Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2024
“I envisioned discovering a forgotten couture collection in Elsa’s country house.” Schiaparelli, a couture house renowned in the 1920s and 1930s, has seen its creative director, Daniel Roseberry, consistently push boundaries beyond that era. However, this season, he explicitly channeled his restless vision. “I wanted the collection to evoke a different era… There was something about the simplicity and freshness of the 1950s. You’ll find nods to those iconic silhouettes.”
Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2024
The 1950s represent the pinnacle of haute couture, and focusing on that era signals Roseberry’s ambitious vision. He expressed a desire to “demonstrate the versatility of the brand, as well as the capabilities of both myself and the ateliers.” Together, their achievements are remarkable. For instance, there’s the show-opening cape, boasting broad shoulders reminiscent of an eagle—or a phoenix, the show’s symbolic emblem, given Schiaparelli’s expertise in reinvention, as Roseberry elaborated. The cape featured silver lozenge embroidery arranged to resemble shimmering feathered wings. Another standout piece was a black party dress with a tulle skirt perpetually in a can-can kick, revealing an intricately embellished underside adorned with coppery pink rhinestones. Additionally, the intricate millefeuille circles adorning the arabesque hems of an hourglass dress showcased another impressive technique.
Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2024
The collection confirmed the remark that “People don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.” Roseberry undoubtedly crystallizes the fashion fanaticism so many acolytes feel towards the house, making the brand as one of the fashion houses with the most consistently high quality shows.