On March 1st, Loewe’s Fall 2024 RTW show at Paris Fashion Week transported guests into a mesmerizing maze-like gallery space, bathed in three shades of green. Creative Director Jonathan Anderson curated a captivating ambiance for the Spanish fashion house, transforming a Parisian venue into an art gallery adorned with lush greenery and a backdrop of 18 paintings portraying blossoming floral scenes by the late American artist Albert York.
Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 RTW collection
Despite the apparent simplicity of York’s artwork, Anderson found inspiration in its understated beauty, juxtaposing it with Loewe’s bold and provocative aesthetic. Reflecting on the provenance of creation and the evolution of craftsmanship over time, Anderson drew parallels between York’s reclusive nature and his paintings’ association with elite figures like Jackie Kennedy Onassis, prompting contemplation on class dynamics and shifting perceptions of luxury.
Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 RTW collection
True to Anderson’s signature style, the collection harmoniously blends contrasting silhouettes, combining tailored pieces with exaggerated proportions. Tactile fabrics and voluminous forms lend a touchable quality to trousers, blouses, and dresses, while classic autumn staples like overcoats and knit jumpers take on new dimensions.
The dog design paid homage to mosaic rings that depicted cherished pets owned by members of the upper class
Departing from Loewe’s usual vibrant palette, this season’s collection embraces a neutral color scheme inspired by nature, featuring earthy tones and delicate pastels alongside bold accents of cherry red. My personal favourite piece is an avant-garde beaded bag resembling a porcelain bunch of asparagus, paying homage to provincial French ceramics and the intricacies of craftsmanship.
Porcelain Asparagus Bag
Anderson’s collection prompts reflection on the value of objects and the meanings we assign to them. Through meticulous craftsmanship and creative reinterpretation, he invites us to reconsider our perceptions of clothing and luxury, challenging us to explore the intersection of historical craft and contemporary fashion. He hinted at the emotional connections or disconnects we form with the items we purchase and wear. “Why do we buy things, and why do those things have meaning?” he asked. “It’s the idea of a Chippendale chair, of a commission of those chairs, and the idea of an outsider looking into a world [of the original maker] that we don’t experience.” Over time, our views of clothing and objects can evolve, sometimes leading us to perceive them differently. Anderson transformed a basic pinstripe suit by covering it entirely in beads, showcasing his fascination with the concept that “craft can nearly become something else.” He added afterward: “I think it’s always in an exploration stage, and you go back to it, and how do you look at historical craft that has nothing to do with fashion and reapply it to clothing?”
oewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 RTW collection
Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2024 RTW collection not only celebrates Albert York’s artistic legacy but also underscores Jonathan Anderson’s position as a visionary artist in the realm of fashion.