The second act is always the toughest — or so the cliché goes. But for Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, the Montreal-based duo behind Matières Fécales, the follow-up to last season’s critically acclaimed debut felt more like a continuation than a hurdle. Backstage, Bhaskaran explained that they’ve already mapped out four collections in advance. Ten years of work and vision led them here, and it shows.
This season, instead of leaning into their signature brand of hyper-gothic spectacle, the pair sought to reveal something gentler. “People often call us harsh, scary, ugly — all those words,” Dalton admitted. “This was about showing the prettiness.”
Matières Fécales Spring 2026
And pretty it was — but always with a twist. The opening look, a pink satin hourglass skirt suit, mirrored the roses tumbling down the marble fireplace of the Place Vendôme venue. Some flowers were fresh, others wilting, a poetic reminder that beauty needn’t be perfect. A Degas-inspired ballerina dress cinched just a shade too tightly, and tweed skirt suits appeared artfully shredded, proving that refinement in the Matières Fécales universe always arrives with frayed edges.
Matières Fécales Spring 2026
Elsewhere, fragility came to life in sheer layers of tulle — draped delicately over an ivory bomber, trailing from tuxedo shirts, or whispering through blush satin slips topped with Stephen Jones’ dreamlike headpieces. There were also more grounded, everyday gestures: slouchy jeans and tees printed with French queer artist Pierre Molinier’s self-portraits. Shoes by Christian Louboutin added a fetishistic gleam, though they proved tricky for a few models navigating the runway’s grandeur.
Matières Fécales Spring 2026
But what truly set this show apart — in my opinion — was the casting. The runway felt alive with faces that reflected not just the designers’ community, but the world as it really is. Friends of the brand filled the lineup, from Colin Jones, fresh off her CR Fashion Book cover, to Nikki Lilly, the British content creator and activist whose presence was nothing short of inspiring. In an industry where casting often remains narrow and homogenous, Matières Fécales made inclusivity feel authentic, not performative.
Matières Fécales Spring 2026
That’s what struck me most: seeing Place Vendôme, one of fashion’s most exclusive and intimidating addresses, momentarily transformed into a space where difference wasn’t just tolerated but celebrated. “In some landscapes like this, people like us aren’t welcome,” Bhaskaran said. “So it’s about taking that obstacle and turning it into something beautiful.”
And they did exactly that.