Daniel Roseberry has always designed with women in mind, but for Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, women weren’t just his focus—they were his entire world. Presented in Paris last night, the collection was born from a radical thought experiment: What if a pandemic wiped out men entirely? If women inherited the world, what would they wear?
Schiaparelli Fall/ Winter 2025 Collection
For Roseberry, the answer was clear: women would dress solely for themselves, as they always should. This ethos is precisely why Schiaparelli has become a dominant force on the red carpet—its designs make women feel both extraordinary and at ease. Roseberry’s creations transport wearers to a realm beyond the ordinary, balancing fantasy with function. His designs allow women to move through reality while appearing almost otherworldly, exuding a divine presence through the interplay of tulle, fringe, and gold. With this collection, he has turned the ethereal into something tangible, something to be worn.
Schiaparelli Fall/ Winter 2025 Collection
Among the most striking elements on the runway were the belts—stacked, oversized, and completely transformative. Nearly every look featured multiple belts layered together, with some models donning up to four at once. This exaggerated styling not only accentuated silhouettes but also redefined the belt as more than a mere accessory. Chunky, detailed buckles and misaligned leather straps created a zigzag effect across torsos, a signature Roseberry touch: taking the familiar and twisting it into something singular and surreal.
Schiaparelli Fall/ Winter 2025 Collection
Old Hollywood, Reimagined for Women
Schiaparelli has become synonymous with Hollywood glamour, dressing a significant portion of its stars. But this season, Roseberry reinterpreted Old Hollywood masculinity through a strictly feminine lens. Structured suits with broad 1940s shoulders and cinched waists, slouchy iridescent pant sets with undone blouses, and brilliantly luminous blazers all challenged conventional notions of power dressing. These weren’t just power suits; they were a declaration. As if responding to recent discourse on power dressing, Roseberry’s designs asked, “Oh, you thought that was powerful?” These pieces truly commanded a presence.
In his show notes, Roseberry reflected on the reality that women rarely dress for men. When they dress up, it’s often for other women—their praise, admiration, and understanding matter most. Echoing the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, who collaborated with male artists but never designed for the male gaze, Roseberry continues to create for women who want to feel beautiful on their own terms. His pieces invite admiration, curiosity, and intrigue, celebrating unconventional beauty.
Schiaparelli Fall/ Winter 2025 Collection
This philosophy came to life through fabrics that shimmered, fur details that enveloped, and silhouettes that defied convention. More than just visually stunning, the collection was thought-provoking, challenging traditional ideals of femininity and power. The collection’s vision extended beyond mere aesthetics; it speculated on a world where women inherited and redefined traditional masculine archetypes. Structured suits, reminiscent of classic Hollywood, were transformed through embellishments that nodded to showgirl corsetry, merging strength with sensuality.
Schiaparelli Fall/ Winter 2025 Collection
A Texan Influence and the Industrialization of Couture
Roseberry’s Texan roots surfaced through Western-inspired elements: silver-buckled belts, lace-up leather pants reminiscent of chaps, and a fringed leather coat adorned with grommet detailing. Viscose knit dresses mimicked the texture of snakeskin, further reinforcing the cowboy-inspired aesthetic.
But beyond thematic storytelling, the collection also marked a shift in Roseberry’s approach to craftsmanship. He explored ways to adapt couture techniques for ready-to-wear, an “industrialization” of Schiaparelli’s signature handcrafted details. This resulted in ribbon dresses that cascaded fluidly over the body and a sequined gold gown designed to sculpt a statuesque silhouette—though its structure appeared somewhat restrictive. Even in moments of leisure, the collection maintained its bold spirit, offering beaded pajama sets that proved loungewear can be just as statement-making as evening attire. The brand’s iconic surrealist jewelry was reinterpreted for greater accessibility, preserving its drama while reducing its weight for practicality.
Schiaparelli Fall/ Winter 2025 Collection
With this collection, Roseberry envisioned a post-male-dominated world, blending historical references with contemporary reinvention. It wasn’t just about dressing women—it was about empowering them through fashion that feels both timeless and radically new. By pushing the boundaries of couture and ready-to-wear, he continues to position Schiaparelli as not just a house of artistry, but a formidable force in luxury fashion’s future.