The Italian luxury house turns to two of Milan’s most unconventional creative minds as it navigates a pivotal moment in its history.
Moschino has officially appointed Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the founders of contemporary fashion label Sunnei, as its new co-creative directors. The announcement comes just days after the departure of Adrian Appiolaza, who exits the role after leading the house for two and a half years.
The appointment marks a significant turning point not only for Moschino but also for its parent company, Aeffe Group, which is currently undergoing a major financial restructuring. By selecting two designers renowned for their irreverent creativity and sharp understanding of modern consumer culture, the brand appears determined to reconnect with the provocative spirit that made founder Franco Moschino one of fashion’s most influential disruptors.
A New Chapter for Moschino
In announcing the appointment, Aeffe Executive Chairman Massimo Ferretti emphasized the importance of balancing heritage with innovation, describing Messina and Rizzo as creative leaders capable of translating Moschino’s distinctive identity for a new generation.
The duo arrives with a reputation for challenging traditional fashion conventions. Through Sunnei, the Milan-based brand they founded over a decade ago, Messina and Rizzo built a cult following by blending experimental design with witty commentary on the fashion system itself.
Their final Sunnei presentation in September 2025 perfectly encapsulated their approach. Rather than staging a traditional runway show, the designers transformed the event into a fictional auction where attendees bid using “fashion dollars,” blurring the lines between performance art, satire, and commercial critique. Shortly afterward, they announced their departure from the label they had spent years building.
For Moschino—a house founded on irony, humor, and cultural commentary—the pairing appears almost inevitable.
Why Sunnei’s Founders Make Sense for Moschino
Since its launch as a direct-to-consumer menswear label in 2015, Sunnei has become one of Italy’s most influential independent fashion brands. The company expanded into womenswear in 2019 and developed a loyal international audience drawn to its colorful aesthetics, unconventional silhouettes, and playful approach to fashion storytelling.
What distinguished Sunnei from many contemporary brands, however, was its ability to combine creativity with business acumen.
Unlike many fashion designers who emerge from traditional design schools, Messina and Rizzo built their careers from the commercial side of the industry. Before launching Sunnei, Messina worked in visual merchandising at Gucci, while Rizzo held roles in digital management and buying. Their understanding of branding, retail, and consumer engagement helped transform Sunnei from a niche startup into a globally recognized label.
The pair demonstrated a talent for creating viral fashion moments without sacrificing product credibility. One memorable example was Sunnei’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation, where audience members were invited to score each look in real time using numbered paddles. The concept generated widespread conversation while reinforcing the brand’s reputation for questioning fashion’s unwritten rules.
This combination of conceptual creativity and commercial awareness could prove particularly valuable for Moschino at a time when luxury brands face increasing pressure to generate both cultural relevance and financial performance.
The Legacy They Inherit
Taking over Moschino means inheriting one of fashion’s most distinctive creative legacies.
When Franco Moschino founded the label in 1983, he challenged the seriousness of luxury fashion through satire, parody, and social commentary. His designs frequently mocked industry conventions while simultaneously celebrating fashion’s theatricality.
Following his death, Moschino’s identity evolved under several creative leaders, most notably Jeremy Scott, whose decade-long tenure transformed the brand into a pop-culture powerhouse. Scott’s collections became known for their cartoon-inspired imagery, celebrity appeal, and highly shareable runway moments.
After Scott’s departure in 2023, Davide Renne was appointed creative director but tragically passed away just days into the role. Adrian Appiolaza subsequently took over, bringing a more refined and wearable interpretation of Moschino while maintaining the house’s playful spirit.
Appiolaza’s background included senior design positions at Loewe under JW Anderson, Chloé with Clare Waight Keller, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton. His appointment was widely viewed as an effort to modernize Moschino’s offering while preserving its creative DNA.
His first collection debuted in February 2024 and introduced a softer, more commercially accessible vision for the brand. However, his tenure ultimately lasted only a short period before both parties agreed to part ways.
A Creative Appointment During Financial Turbulence
While the arrival of Messina and Rizzo has generated excitement within the industry, the larger challenge facing Moschino extends beyond design.
The appointment comes during a difficult period for Aeffe Group, which owns Moschino alongside Alberta Ferretti and Pollini.
In recent months, Aeffe has been navigating a complex restructuring process following significant financial pressures. Earlier this year, Moschino disclosed insolvency concerns, while the broader group reportedly implemented more than 200 layoffs across its operations.
The company has also undergone leadership changes, appointing Riccardo Bagolin as General Manager in June 2026. Working alongside Chief Restructuring Officer Stefano Falliti, Bagolin has been tasked with guiding the group through a turnaround strategy aimed at stabilizing operations and restoring profitability.
Adding to the uncertainty, investment firm Oxy Capital has submitted a preliminary proposal that could facilitate a broader restructuring of the business. The proposal remains subject to due diligence and further negotiations, but it underscores the scale of the challenges facing the group.
Recent financial figures illustrate the situation clearly. Aeffe reported sales of €155 million for the first nine months ending September 30, representing a decline of more than 25 percent compared to the previous year. At the same time, debt levels increased significantly, while operating losses continued to widen.
Against this backdrop, the selection of Messina and Rizzo appears to be about more than creative direction. It is a strategic attempt to reignite consumer interest, generate cultural momentum, and restore confidence in one of Italy’s most recognizable fashion brands.
What Their Appointment Signals for Luxury Fashion
The choice of Sunnei’s founders reflects a broader shift occurring throughout the luxury industry.
Increasingly, fashion houses are looking beyond established celebrity designers and turning toward creative leaders who possess both cultural credibility and entrepreneurial experience. Modern luxury brands need more than runway spectacles; they need individuals capable of building communities, generating digital engagement, and translating creativity into sustainable business growth.
Messina and Rizzo embody this new generation of fashion leadership.
Their experience building Sunnei from an independent startup into an internationally recognized brand demonstrates an understanding of contemporary fashion consumers that many traditional creative directors lack. They understand how fashion operates not only as a product but also as a conversation, a community, and a cultural phenomenon.
For Moschino, whose identity has always relied on challenging norms and sparking dialogue, this perspective may be exactly what the brand needs.
Looking Ahead to Milan Fashion Week 2026
The fashion industry will get its first glimpse of the designers’ vision in September 2026 during Milan Fashion Week, where Messina and Rizzo are scheduled to unveil their debut collection for Moschino.
The presentation will undoubtedly be one of the most closely watched events of the season. Observers will be eager to see whether the duo can successfully merge Sunnei’s contemporary irreverence with Moschino’s historic legacy of satire and provocation.
More importantly, the collection may offer the first indication of whether creative innovation can help propel Moschino through one of the most challenging periods in its recent history.
For now, one thing is certain: Moschino has once again placed creativity at the center of its future—and few designers are better equipped to challenge expectations than Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo.
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