Renowned for his maximalist eccentricity, Alessandro Michele at Gucci was marked by unpredictability – from staging shows with sets of identical twins to having models carry replicas of their own heads, and challenging gender norms through his designs. Now, Michele has astonished everyone once more by unveiling his first collection for Valentino on the final day of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, less than three months after being named the new Creative Director of the esteemed fashion house.
Avant les Débuts Collection
Michele’s spontaneous debut, fittingly titled ‘Avant les Débuts,’ features over 260 images of ready-to-wear and accessories, offering an extensive preview of his vision for the Roman fashion house. “Something magical happened, a chemical reaction, and we started to work as if in an orchestra — with love, and without looking at the time. We lost ourselves in Valentino’s archive,” Michele shared with Business of Fashion.
Avant les Débuts Collection
The collection was unveiled via an impromptu Zoom call with a select group of editors. Initially, Michele planned to release the resort collection directly in stores without any fanfare. However, in the last few days, he changed his approach. “I started working at Valentino as if we were an orchestra; everyone was playing their instrument with so much love and dedication that I thought it’d be right to be thankful and grateful to the people who have worked so tirelessly to make it happen. My job is to tune the instruments, and it’s all about sharing, so to keep the collection somehow hidden from view wouldn’t have felt right. This is a beginning born out of love—it wants to be brought to light and be seen and shared.”
Avant les Débuts Collection
Michele has found a certain kinship with Garavani’s love for an impeccably polished and meticulously ornate style. He mentioned that they share an enthusiasm for complex compositions, an approach he previously explored at Gucci but has now elevated through refinement and composure. Although the collection wasn’t available for in-person viewing, it’s clear that Michele’s flair for extravagant gestures is now framed within a boundary of sophistication and luxury, without losing its charming quirkiness. “Valentino was never a minimalist, but a maximalist, even in the ’70s when he was at his most streamlined,” Michele noted. “There was always a distinctly Roman sense of opulence and excess in his work, distilled through an obsession for beauty.” “I never had any political agenda at Gucci about the changes that my discourse on gender has triggered. I only followed my idea of beauty, and everything has happened naturally, and also in a rather delicate, gentle way. Here at Valentino, everything that happens will happen naturally—because that’s the way I am.”
Avant les Débuts Collection
This collection undoubtedly marks a successful infusion of Michele’s flair and Valentino’s iconic house codes (Valentino’s rich heritage of opulence and intricate design), which revive the brands and shift it to a refreshing direction. The collection sets the stage for an exciting new chapter for Valentino under Michele’s direction, promising continued innovation and timeless elegance.
Avant les Débuts Collection