During the Fall of 2023, I had the opportunity to participate in a semester exchange program at Bocconi University in Milan, Italy. One of the courses I enrolled in was “Management of Luxury Fashion Companies,” which provided invaluable insights into the operations, strategies, and brand management of high-end fashion labels. A significant portion of the course grade was based on a group project, which was split into two parts: Part A required a brand analysis presentation, and Part B involved creating a video comparing two brands. My team, comprised of six students, selected Stella McCartney as the focus of our analysis, and for Part B, we compared Stella McCartney with Chloe in terms of retail identity, market segment, communication strategy, product analysis, and pricing.
As part of the project, I was assigned the task of analyzing the retail identity of both brands. This provided a unique opportunity to conduct field research, as I visited the stores of Stella McCartney and Chloe in Milan to observe and document key aspects of their retail environments. This hands-on experience not only allowed me to apply theoretical models from the course but also deepened my understanding of how luxury brands communicate their identity through their physical retail spaces.
Stella McCartney: Retail Identity
Stella McCartney’s store is located on Monte Napoleone, one of the most prestigious and high-end shopping streets in Milan. Surrounded by other luxury brands, the store benefits from the exclusivity and glamour of its location. The boutique itself is spread across two floors, with tall windows facing the street. Despite its prime location, the store’s layout and design conveyed a much more understated and intimate vibe compared to some of its neighboring luxury stores.
Upon entering, the space felt somewhat small and warm, with muted color schemes primarily featuring nudes and pinks, occasionally broken up by pops of red and blue from the latest collection. The lighting in the store was quite dim overall, with brighter lights strategically highlighting specific pieces on display. This contrasted with the packed arrangement of clothing racks, which made the space feel a bit cramped and detracted from the spacious, open ambiance often associated with high-end boutiques. There was no overwhelming sense of luxury—materials used in the store design and display felt muted, and there was a noticeable absence of sensory elements like fragrances or ambient music. The store design leaned more toward a youthful, trendy aesthetic rather than conveying the traditional, opulent luxury that one might expect from such a brand.
The service was decent. Sales associates greeted us immediately upon entering and offered assistance, asking if we were looking for anything in particular. They were knowledgeable about the brand and eager to share the stories behind the pieces we were interested in, especially highlighting Stella McCartney’s commitment to sustainability. For example, they enthusiastically explained how certain garments were made from plant-based materials such as bananas and grapes, embodying the brand’s cruelty-free and eco-conscious values. This personal interaction reinforced the brand’s identity as one committed to sustainability, a core element of its marketing and brand strategy.
Stella McCartney: Omni-Channel Engagement
Stella McCartney integrates technology seamlessly into its retail experience, making it easy for customers to transition between the online and offline shopping world. Services such as “click and collect” were available, allowing customers to order items online and pick them up in-store, or return online purchases directly at the physical boutique. Additionally, the store incorporated elements of social media into its retail experience, providing a bridge between its physical presence and digital platforms. However, the physical store design didn’t fully reflect the luxury feel one might expect from a high-end brand—certain materials felt cheap, especially items like shoes made from recycled plastics, which lacked the premium touch that could justify high price tags.
Stella McCartney: Store Windows and Visual Merchandising
One surprising aspect of the Stella McCartney store was the lack of large, impactful window displays. The store had only a few windows, and they were not particularly eye-catching. This was a stark contrast to other luxury stores in the area, which often utilize their windows as a primary means of attracting customers. The few windows that were present were subtle and did not immediately draw attention. This lack of visual emphasis made the store easy to overlook, especially considering its location amidst other high-end competitors on Monte Napoleone.
Inside, the visual merchandising focused on simplicity and sustainability. The walls had a look of recycled materials, which fit in with Stella McCartney’s eco-friendly ethos. The displays themselves were minimalist, and while they did highlight the brand’s sustainable efforts, they didn’t convey the same luxuriousness one might expect from a designer boutique.
Conclusion
Analyzing the retail identity of Stella McCartney revealed an interesting blend of sustainability-focused values and a youthful, modern design. While the store itself didn’t fully convey the high-end luxury feel typical of other brands on Monte Napoleone, it effectively communicated the brand’s commitment to eco-conscious practices and cruelty-free fashion. The dim lighting, crowded layout, and use of recycled materials in the displays gave the space a cozy but less luxurious feel, appealing perhaps more to a younger, environmentally-conscious consumer than to traditional luxury shoppers.
This hands-on project at Bocconi University was an eye-opening experience that allowed me to directly engage with the fashion industry’s practices in a real-world context. Visiting both Stella McCartney and Chloe stores helped me understand how luxury brands differentiate themselves not only through their products but also through their retail environments and customer experiences. It was a fantastic opportunity to apply theoretical knowledge to practical scenarios, providing a deeper understanding of the luxury fashion sector and its evolving dynamics.
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